It is a flowering perennial shrub, native to the Southeastern United States, Mexico, Central America, and South America that typically grows to 3-4’ in height, but can reach heights of up to 8-10’ with an equal spread. Its upper stems are green and fuzzy to the touch, while more woody towards its base. The leaves are roughly heart shaped and up to 5 inches in diameter, with rounded teeth around the edges. They are dark green, palmately veined, and velvety to the touch.

By far, the most outstanding feature of Malvaviscus arboreus are the one to two inch long scarlet flowers, similar to unopened Hibiscus blossoms, that adorn its stems. The flowers remain tightly wrapped, in an overlapping manner, around a central column, comprised of pistil and stamens, that extends an inch or more beyond the blossom like a small red licorice stick. The blooms appear mostly in the summer and fall attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, and the small red fruit is edible to not only animals and birds, but humans as well. The fruit can be eaten raw or cooked, has a mealy texture, and has a taste similar to an apple.

Malvaviscus arboreus is adapted to Plant Hardiness Zones 7–12, and will grow in a variety of soils ranging from sandy to limestone. Once established, it is extremely heat and drought tolerant, and will grow in Full Sun to Partial Shade. It makes an excellent mass under-story planting beneath large trees with mature canopies. To ensure good flowering, prune back half of the previous season’s growth in early spring.

The leaves of the Malvaviscus arboreus have historically been used as an emmolient. A decoction, produced by first mashing, then boiling the flowers to extract oils and volatile organic chemicals, is used in Mexico to treat inflammation of the digestive tract and as a menstrual aid.

Plant some Malvaviscus arboreus in your yard this fall, USDA Plant Hardiness Zone permitting. You’ll be pleased with the plants adaptability and rewarded with a brilliant show of red blossoms next summer and fall.

Disclaimer
The traditional medicinal uses of Malvaviscus arboreus are listed purely for historical purposes. I am certainly not a doctor and make no claims as to their effectiveness in treating any illness or ailment. Always check with your doctor before taking any herbal supplements. Although many people still use this plant for the purposes listed, there are very specific ways that the plant must be processed and ingested or applied. In other words, do your due diligence. Don’t just grab a handful of red flowers from the nearest plant and eat them in hopes of settling your upset tummy.

The post Malvaviscus arboreus - Adaptable and Beautiful first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

Quite to the contrary, a “rose rustler” is really the good guy in the white cowboy hat, riding in at the last minute to rescue long forgotten rose varieties. Scattered all across the country in old cemeteries, on abandoned homesteads, around old barns, along fences and back country roads are roses that have survived for decades. These “found” roses are hardy survivors and prized for their beauty and history.

Unlike our villain in the black hat, rose rustlers have strict rules of etiquette. When an old/new rose is spotted, care is taken to identify ownership, ask permission to visit the site, and ask permission to take a cutting for propagation. Information is usually gathered from the owner on how long it has been there, who planted it, and the plant’s blooming cycle.

A newly found rose is given a study name that usually relates to where it was found or the original owner. They are often identified as a known rose variety, but many go unidentified and thus permanently take on their study name. “Georgetown Tea”, “Highway 290 Pink Buttons”, and “Caldwell Pink” are just a few examples.

Antique Roses
Along with these “found” roses, many other “Old Garden” “Heritage” or “Antique” roses, many introduced into the U.S. before 1867, are being rediscovered. They are prized for their beauty, ease of growth, heat and drought tolerance, and adaptability to a wide variety of soils.

Research Proven
Horticultural experts at Texas A&M University have conducted an extensive eight-year field research study on these roses. During the study period, no pesticides were applied in order to evaluate their resistance to disease and pests.

Full Sun
All roses require “Full Sun” to thrive. Check out our handy Sun or Shade Tool. Here you will find definitions, and graphical representations to help determine what areas of your yard are in Full Sun, Partial Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade, or Dense Shade.

Air Circulation
When planting roses, it is important to place them in a location that has good air circulation and to plant them at their recommended spacing (ex. 4’ apart). Good air circulation around your roses will help to prevent fungal diseases.

Soil
Although these roses will grow in almost any soil, ranging from well-drained acid sands to poorly aerated, highly alkaline clays, they will really thrive in well-drained soil that has been amended with plenty of organic matter or compost.

Deadhead
No, we’re not back in our cowboy analogy. Deadheading roses is the act of cutting off the spent rose flower blossom once it has finished blooming and lost all of its petals. Deadheading helps encourage the rose plant to produce new flowers.

Know Your Zone
Each rose variety will grow in a certain range of “Plant Hardiness Zones” (ex. Zones 4-9). Be sure to check which zones each rose will grow in. Use our Plant Hardiness Zones Tool to learn about Plant Hardiness Zones and to find which zone you live in.

Summary
The table below shows several varieties of roses along with their characteristics. With the large variety in sizes, shapes, growth habits, colors, and fragrances these roses offer, you are sure to find at least one to fit your landscape. Use them in mass plantings, as specimens, in containers, to cover an arbor, to hide the doghouse, or as an extremely effective barrier to “varmints” of all sizes.

Plant some and enjoy them today. And maybe, just maybe, a long, long time from now, a rose rustler will discover them still growing right where you planted them.

DWARF SHRUB
	Blooms: Spring, Summer and Fall Size: 3’ tall x 3’ wide Spacing: 5’ apart on center Fragrant: Outstanding Plant Hardiness Zones: 6-9
	Blooms: Spring, Summer and Fall Size: 3’ tall x 4’ wide Spacing: 6’ apart on center Fragrant: No Plant Hardiness Zones: 4-9
SMALL SHRUB
	Blooms: Spring, Summer, and Fall Size: 4’ tall x 4’ wide Spacing: 6’ apart on center Fragrant: Yes, tea like Plant Hardiness Zones: 7-9
MEDIUM SHRUB
	Blooms: through all warm months Size: 5’ tall x 5’ wide Spacing: 7’ apart on center Fragrant: Moderate Plant Hardiness Zones: 5-9
	Blooms: Spring until first frost Size: 5’ tall x 5’ wide Spacing: 6’ apart on center Fragrant: No Plant Hardiness Zones: 4-9
CLIMBING
	Blooms: Spring Size: 15-20’ tall x 10’ wide Spacing: 12’ apart on center Fragrant: Yes Plant Hardiness Zones: 4-9
	Blooms: Spring, Summer, and Fall Size: 8’ tall x 4’ wide Spacing: 6’ apart on center Fragrant: No Plant Hardiness Zones: 4-9

The post Roses: Old is New Again first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

Bulb Selection
The key to having success with spring flowering bulbs is purchasing healthy, quality bulbs. Purchase bulbs early from a reputable source and store them in a cool, dry place that is well ventilated. In general the larger and healthier the bulb, the better flowering it will be.

Planting Tips
– Plant bulbs in the fall once night time temperatures consistently fall to between 50° F and 40° F for two weeks straight
– Plant bulbs in an area that receives full sun
– Plant bulbs in holes that are three times their height (ex. plant a 2” tall bulb in 6” deep hole).
– Plant bulbs with their tip pointing up, and their base down
– Plant small bulbs about 2” apart, and large bulbs about 6” apart
– Water the planting site well after planting

Make Planting Easier
One of the best tools I’ve ever come across for planting bulbs is the Yard Butler Bulb Auger. Just insert it into your power drill, then quickly and easily drill 1-1/4-inch wide holes to the desired depth. You’ll be done planting your bulbs in no time and your back and knees will thank you.

Bulb Life Cycle
Once planted, the bulbs roots begin to develop in the fall. During the winter, the bulbs roots continue to develop and the floral and leaf meristems (the initial emerging leaf and flower stems) start to develop. In the spring, the shoots elongate, flowering occurs, and daughter bulbs (new bulbs attached to the sides of a bulb) form. In the summer, shoots senesce, or wither, daughter bulb formation is complete, the original old bulb separates, and the new daughter bulbs may be harvested.

Forcing Bulbs
A great way to get even more enjoyment out of your bulbs is to plant a few in containers for “forcing” to create indoor flowering container plants. Forcing a bulb is simply a means of tricking the bulb into thinking it has spent a long cold winter outdoors in the ground, and that it is now spring and time to bloom.

Place 1” of gravel in a small pot. Using a light weight potting soil, place several bulbs in the soil in the pot about ½” apart. Leave the tip of the bulbs just showing above the soil. The potted bulbs now need to be stored at between 50° F and 40° F for 10 to 12 weeks to simulate winter. The vegetable drawer in your refrigerator is the perfect environment for this if you have the room. After this time, move the potted bulbs to a cool dimly lit area for a few days, and finally move them to a brightly lit area where they will bloom. Be sure to keep the bulbs slightly moist.

Favorite Varieties

	Dutch Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)
	Paperwhite (Narcissus papyraceus)
	Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus)
	Tulip (Tulipa gesneriana)
	Summer Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum)

Summary
Spring flowering bulbs, planted in the fall, can provide a vast assortment of colors, textures, and scents in your garden for years to come. Experiment with different types and cultivars to see which ones grow best for you. Once you’ve found your favorites, dig up and share the daughter bulbs, that grow along side the original bulb, with friends and loved ones. A little time spent planting bulbs this fall will be rewarded many times over this spring, and for many springs to come. Enjoy.

The post Plant Bulbs This Fall for a Spring Blossom Bonanza first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

It is native to the Southwest United States, and Florida with a natural range that includes the Caribbean and the Bahamas, and extends into Mexico, Central America, and South America as far as Northern Argentina. Tecoma stans is the official flower of the United States Virgin Islands and the national flower of The Bahamas.

It is an irregularly shaped flowering perennial shrub that grows to 3 – 6’ in height. It has several stems and slender, erect branches with sharp-toothed, lance-shaped, olive-green leaves. From April through November, Tecoma stans produces large clusters of bright yellow, trumpet-shaped flowers that are 3-5” in length. These showy blooms are the source of many of the plant’s common names and attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Tecoma stans grows best in well drained rocky, limestone, sand, and loam soils. It thrives in the heat, is extremely drought tolerant, has low water usage requirements, and prefers dry soil conditions. It tolerates cold within its natural range, but even in these southern areas, harsh winters will cause it to die back to the ground. It can be grown in more northern areas but should be treated as an annual, or used as a potted specimen.

The leaves, bark, and roots of Tecoma stans contain many biologically active chemicals, and extracts from those tissues have been used in traditional folk medicine to treat many diseases and conditions (Liogier 1990). Perhaps the most promising compounds are monoterpine alkaloids, which have been shown to effectively reduce the symptoms of diabetes mellitus in rats, dogs, and mice (Aguilar and others 1993, Lozoya- Meckes and Mellado-Campos 1985, Perez and others 1984).

Having become a popular landscape plant in recent years, Tecoma stans contributes to the growing trend of using native plants in both commercial and residential landscapes. It’s beautiful appearance, along with its drought-tolerance, and possible medical uses showcase the best that native plants have to offer.

The post Tecoma stans – One Look Tells you Yellow Bells first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

There are over 20 varieties of native and adapted ornamental grasses in Texas alone, ranging in size from a few inches to several feet in height and width. They come in colors ranging from silver-gray to deep blue-green in the spring and summer, and in the fall and winter can turn anywhere from a light tan to deep rust color.

Ornamental grasses are an excellent way of adding visual interest, color, texture, height, movement, and even sound to a landscape throughout the year. Their exceptional hardiness, drought tolerance, adaptability to a wide variety of soils, and pest and disease resistance make them a great addition to any landscape.

Most ornamental grasses will grow to their full height in about 3 months, making them an inexpensive and quick way to make a dramatic, yet typically long lived impact on a landscape.

Ornamental grasses can be used in many ways in the landscape. Larger varieties can be used as a specimen plant. Use them in a border, as a hedge or as a screen. Ornamental grasses make a great backdrop for roses and other perennials, or try planting a single variety in large clusters for a dramatic effect. In the fall and winter, use dormant ornamental grass cuttings in flower arrangements.

Now is the time to think about where you can use ornamental grasses in your landscape this coming spring. Check out the table below for several varieties you may find of interest. However you decide to use ornamental grasses in your landscape, you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the results.

Don’t forget to check our Plant Hardiness Zones Tool, in the How Do Gardener Tool Shed, to find your USDA Plant Hardiness zone.

Little Bluestem Schizachyrium scoparium	Habit: Perennial Exposure: Sun, Partial-Sun Height: 2' - 3' Width: 18" - 36" USDA Hardiness Zones: 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10
Inland Sea Oats Chasmanthium latifolium	Habit: Perennial Exposure: Sun, Partial-Sun, Shade Height: 1' - 3' Width: 1' - 2" USDA Hardiness Zones: 5,6,7,8,9
Muhly Grasses Muhlenbergia spp.	Habit: Perennial Exposure: Sun, Partial-Sun Height: Varies by species, 2' - 6' Width: 3' - 6' USDA Hardiness Zones: 6,7,8,9,10
Dwarf Pampas Grass Cortaderia selloana	Habit: Perennial Exposure: Sun, Partial-Sun Height: 5' - 6' Width: 5' - 6" USDA Hardiness Zones: 7,8,9,10,11
Chinese Silver Grass Miscanthus sinensis	Habit: Perennial Exposure: Sun, Partial-Sun Height: 18" - 5' Width: 1' - 3' USDA Hardiness Zones: 5,6,7,8,9,10
Annual Fountain Grass Pennisetum setaceum	Habit: Annual Exposure: Sun, Partial-Sun Height: 3' - 4' Width: 18" - 30" USDA Hardiness Zones: 9,10,11

The post Ornamental Grasses: Adding Interest to your Landscape first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

The post Star Jasmine first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

The post Lilies After a Rain first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

The post A Saturday Burst of Color first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

The post First Signs of Spring 2015 first appeared on The How Do Gardener.

During this transition into “digging season,” Common Ground Alliance (CGA), the association dedicated to protecting underground utilities and the people who dig near them, reminds homeowners and professional diggers that calling 811 is the first step toward protecting you and your community from the risk of unintentionally damaging an underground line.

Every digging project, no matter how large or small, warrants a free call to 811. Installing a mailbox or fence, building a deck or landscaping are all examples of digging projects that should only begin a few days after making a call to 811. Calling this number connects you to your local one-call utility notification center.

According to data collected by CGA, more than half of American homeowners will not make a free call to 811 before digging. Out of those surveyed, 67 percent know that the paint and flags on the ground are used to mark buried utilities, indicating that awareness of underground infrastructure is high among homeowners, but the importance of calling 811 is low.

Here’s how it works:

* One free, simple phone call to 811 makes it easy for your local one-call center to notify all appropriate utility companies of your intent to dig. Call a few days prior to digging to ensure enough time for the approximate location of utility lines to be marked with flags or paint.

* When you call 811, a representative from your local one-call center will ask for the location and description of your digging project.

* Your local one-call center will notify affected utility companies, which will then send professional locators to the proposed dig site to mark the approximate location of your lines.

* Only once all lines have been accurately marked, roll up those sleeves and carefully dig around the marked areas.

There are nearly 20 million miles of underground utility lines in the United States that your family depends on for everyday needs including electric, gas, water and sewer, cable TV, high-speed Internet and landline telephone.

Unintentionally striking one of these lines can result in inconvenient outages for entire neighborhoods, harm to yourself or your neighbors and repair costs. Every six minutes, homeowners and professionals unintentionally damage an underground utility line because they did not call 811 before digging.

According to the most recent data from CGA, damage occurs less than 1 percent of the time when the digger has called 811 before a project. To find out more information about 811 or the one-call utility notification center in your area, visit www.call811.com.

The post Call 811 before every digging project, large or small first appeared on The How Do Gardener.